Isolated Malta Offers Travelers Charm and Convenience

VALLETTA, Malta — No one would have mistaken us for crazy-in-love honeymooners, but at least we could pretend we were during our one weekend a year away from the kids.

I was in Malta, a Mediterranean island south of Sicily, with my husband to celebrate our 17th wedding anniversary. At home in London were our three children, ages 7, 9, and 12.

Many Americans may know Malta as the place where U.S. President Franklin D. Roosevelt and British Prime Minister Winston Churchill met before heading off to Yalta for their summit with Soviet leader Josef Stalin.

More recently, it was the place where Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip celebrated their 60th wedding anniversary in November.

And if it was good enough for the queen and her husband, it was good enough for me.

In the end, this spit of land between Italy and North Africa was much more than good enough.

As well as boasting warm weather virtually all year 'round, this former British colony stands out from other Mediterranean islands in the sheer number of cultural and especially historical monuments it has crammed into such a small space.

There are prehistoric monuments built 1,000 years before the Pyramids, Roman ruins, and art by Caravaggio, one of the greatest Italian painters of the 17th century.

Malta's recorded history dates back to about 800 B.C., when the country was inhabited by the Phoenicians.

Since then, Malta has been influenced by many inhabitants — the Italians, Turks, and Arabs, to name just a few. In 1814, Malta voluntarily became part of the British Empire.

That's why it's no surprise that even today — 44 years after achieving independence — Malta is an island of pubs, afternoon teas, red telephone booths, and World War II monuments. The Maltese also drive on the left side of the road.

We started our own visit to Malta with a walk through the fortified capital city of Valletta, a gorgeous honey-colored site that Hollywood has embraced as a backdrop for a number of films. It doubled as Rome in the movie "Gladiator," and Brad Pitt prancing around the streets for weeks in a leather skirt while making "Troy."

It's not hard to see why Malta's so popular. Street after street, the Baroque architecture of Valletta — the first city to use a grid system — is captivating.

And for tourists, there are many standout sights that deserve a closer look.

In particular, it's hard not to be bowled over by the beauty of St. John's Co-Cathedral, a 16th-century gem that houses two Caravaggio paintings, including the famous "The Beheading of St. John the Baptist."

Also worth seeing is the National War Museum, which houses photographs and memorabilia from World War II, when the island survived the most intense bombardment anywhere in world history during 69 consecutive days of raids by German and Italian military forces.

But the high point of our weekend came not in Valletta but in Mdina, once the island's capital and now known as the Silent City, which we reached by bus.

Eerily quiet, each of the small city's tiny alleyways — walled in by the Arabs — meander in such a way that it's impossible to tell what's around the corner.

Here we enjoyed a bottle of the local wine and a lunch of rabbit stew — the island's specialty — at a lovely restaurant called Ciappetti that's advertised as "probably the best restaurant this side of the island."

Beyond Mdina, there were plenty of other memorable moments. I outplayed my husband at blackjack in the Dragonara Palace casino located in the lively St. Julian's Bay. We also got turned around in the labyrinth of unadorned burial chambers inside St. Paul's Catacombs in Rabat.

For even more active visitors, Malta is renowned for its diving, and a good map showing the most popular dive sites is available from the tourist offices. The larger hotels can arrange for water skiing, fishing, sailing, and windsurfing.

All in all, Malta is an easy place to visit, even for those who haven't traveled a great deal.

Automated bank machines are ubiquitous and, since Jan. 1 the euro is the official currency. People speak both Maltese and English, and there is a plentiful supply of tour operators on the island.

Perhaps most important: just one-tenth the size of Rhode Island, the 124-square-mile country is a breeze to navigate.

For those who don't wish to rent a car, Malta has a reliable fleet of more than 500 colorful orange and yellow buses that will shuttle visitors to most of the main destinations for just under $1 a ride.

Hotels, too, are of a high standard. The Excelsior Grand Hotel, where we stayed, is a splendid five-star facility that has started taking guests even though it's still under construction and won't officially open until April 1. Only a few minutes' walk from Valletta, many of the 426 rooms have balconies facing the picturesque harbor. Spacious rooms were priced at about $220 a night.

As we left Malta, I realized that the trip had ticked all the right boxes. Rich historical sites transport you from the Stone Age to the Romans and beyond in just a few miles. The local cuisine includes the freshest calamari I've ever tasted. And the customer service — not always Europe's forte — is impeccable.

For Americans, Malta is not the easiest place to visit. Connections must be made through London or various other European cities. But in the end it's worth the effort.

IF YOU GO

Malta includes the inhabited islands of Malta, Gozo, and Comino. It's located about 60 miles south of Sicily.

Information:

Malta's tourism site is www.visitmalta.com

Getting there:

Several European cities, including London and Paris, have flights to Malta International Airport. The flight time from London is about two and a half hours. Carriers include Air Malta, at www.airmalta.com, and British Airways, at www.britishairways.com.

Staying there:

The Excelsior Grand Hotel, www.grandhotelexcelsior.com.mt

The Intercontinental www.malta.intercontinental.com