Uncovering Mexico
Jeremy Schwartz is the Mexico correspondent for Cox Newspapers. He is based in Mexico City.What's on this page?
The entry titled "High cuisine in Mexico City."
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Home > Uncovering Mexico > Archives > 2007 > December > 10 > Entry
High cuisine in Mexico City
Over the weekend I passed over from the Larry Bird year to the Big Papi year (translation: I turned 34, and yes, I’m from Boston) and to celebrate we ate at one of Mexico City’s most amazing restaurants. Mexico City is enjoying a culinary renaissance with a good half dozen restaurants that are re-inventing modern Mexican food. The unspoken gospel here is that street food is often better than anything you’ll find in a restaurant, but these eateries and their cutting-edge twists on Mexican classics are turning that rule on its head.
The best of the lot, or so we were told, is Pujol, a restaurant founded by culinary savant Enrique Olvera in 2000 when he was just 23-years-old. The restaurant is sparse and simple and doesn’t have the look of the place that is becoming a legend. But the food truly was an out-of-this world experience. We ordered the avocado raviolis, which were made with chunks of smokey shrimp, and a some buttery short ribs that were topped with a reduction of mole sauce that tasted like no mole I’ve ever had. It was the type of meal where you linger over every bite, chewing longer than usual just to keep the flavors coming. I’m still partial to street tacos, but a splurge like Pujol every once in a while is no sin.
The best part about the place might be that chef Olvera actually offers cooking lessons through his satellite restaurant TEO. The classes are limited to 12 lucky people and reportedly fill up months in advance.
Do you have any Mexico City eating recommendations? Let us know, we’d love to hear about them.
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By Doug
December 10, 2007 11:34 PM | Link to this
Jeremy,
I’ve eaten at Pujol and agree that it is redefining fusion cuisine.
Another favorite for me is El Tajin, in Coyoacan. Nouveau twists on Veracruz cuisine pair with a delightful garden patio and great service. Hours are strange, so check to make sure they are open before going.
Finally, just about anything on Michoacan street (and cross streets) near the Michoacan market in the Condesa neighborhood is good, in my opinion.
By Jeremy Schwartz
December 14, 2007 12:03 PM | Link to this
Doug - thanks for the tip! That’s actually pretty near the Cox office so we will definitely check out El Tajin. Always good to find good places in the south.