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Tuesday, July 17, 2007

Oaxaca Rumbles Again: Whither Gueleguetza?

By Jeremy Schwartz | Tuesday, July 17, 2007, 10:29 AM

For weeks, tourism officials have been running TV ads announcing the return of Guelaguetza, Oaxaca’s signature cultural festival and a highlight on the state’s tourism calendar (it will be held the next two Mondays).

Last year, Guelaguetza was canceled amid a six-month rebellion that scared off tourists and nearly toppled Gov. Ulises Ruiz. But all that nastiness is behind us, the ads seem to be telling us. Don’t worry, buy your tickets now!

Well, things aren’t looking so rosy in Oaxaca after Monday’s violent confrontation between police and members of the APPO, an umbrella group of protesters that seized control of Oaxaca City last summer.

APPO members attempted to march on the official Guelaguetza auditorium to stage a “people’s Guelaguetza.” The APPO has blasted the official ceremony as the “commercial Guelaguetza” and say it only enriches state officials and hoteliers while exploiting indigenous cultures who live mostly in grinding poverty.

Tourism accounts for much of Oaxaca City’s economy and many were counting on Guelaguetza to signal the re-birth of tourism industry.

On Monday, about halfway up the hill leading to the outdoor auditorium, APPO members were blocked by police, who are fiercely guarding the location. Then things got hairy: Protesters threw rocks as police fired tear gas. APPO members set fire to some buses and reportedly sent others hurtling into nearby businesses.

The battles spilled into a nearby hotel lobby and guests were evacuated. Eventually tear gas-wielding police dispersed the crowd. Dozens were wounded.

According to Mexico City newspapers, the police then went on the offensive, scouring the city for people who looked as though they might be APPO members or with dirty hands (from throwing rocks).

The Reforma newspaper reported that police boarded city buses and arrested suspicious-looking characters. Apprehended APPO members showed signs of beatings, the press reported. In the end, APPO members retreated to downtown Oaxaca and held their version of Guelaguetza in a public plaza.

The APPO has said it will continue its resistance to the official Guelaguetza (insisting it will be non-violent) and the government has guaranteed the event will be safe for tourists.

It should be an interesting week.

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